piątek, 29 listopada 2013

Ultra formal part 1 /english version/


   ULTRA FORMAL is a code in clothing designed for important, special occasions.
Man outfit like a tailcoat or tuxedo is obligatory for men in very formal meetings, usually preceded by a written invitation, which often determines the type of clothing. It is an extremely important element that must not be underestimated, because if it is not followed, we will not be allowed to enter an event.
Ultra Formal applies after 18.00.
Sometimes in the invitation to an extremely solemn gala we can find the following words :
WHITE TIE- French cravate blanche - means that a tailcoat is required, whilst BLACK TIE  cravate noir -means smoking.
  A TAILCOAT is called by the French "magpie’s tail' due to its characteristic shape. It is short in the front and long in the back. It became popular in the nineteenth century as the outer garment but it was worn as early as in the first half of the eighteenth century. A tailcoat was worn together with a top hat and a long, usually black cloak, lined with contrasting lining.
Distinguishing features:
-short, partly done up front, single or double-breasted, long back
-satin, usually silk lapels pointed upwards
-trousers with a satin stripe, without turn- ups.
What to wear with a tailcoat:
-always a white shirt with a plastron, metal screws and cuff links in the cuff, with a detachable tuxedo collar
-always a white vest, with a fairly low cut
-always a white bow tie, never black / a black one is for a waiter /
-braces, but never a belt
-shoes: high gloss patent leather shoes
-white gloves, but nowadays it is rarely seen.
For whom:
Today tailcoats are worn by diplomats, musicians performing in symphony orchestras, soloists and conductors. This outfit indicates that the event we are going to is of the highest importance. You cannot go to a WHITE TIE reception wearing a suit. If you take the risk of it you will most likely not be admitted.

A TUXEDO/ DINNER JACKET is a very important part of the male outfit, which is used more often than a tailcoat for important events.
BLACK TIE means that a tuxedo is required at the reception.
Distinguishing features:
- the top is usually a black tuxedo jacket, single or double-breasted, with rounded, shiny lapels
- trousers with a narrow satin stripe, without turn- ups
- a tuxedo can occur in a variety of colours, a white jacket is also common in addition to the black one, however, trousers are always black or navy blue.
What to wear with a tuxedo:
- a shirt with Kent collar type or a tuxedo one, cuff links are necessary
- a black bow tie and a cummerbund -/ the folds are directed upwards /
- a vest should be made ​​of another fabric than a tuxedo
- shoes: patent leather or high gloss leather
For whom: 
-  for premieres, important internal and external events, elegant receptions and always when the invitation says BLACK TIE.

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