poniedziałek, 25 listopada 2013

Dress Code for business /english version/

    Dress Code is not only a rule how to dress and  look well during busimess meetings but also a way to make our partner aware that he is not ignored, on the contrary, he is respected. Dress Code applies to both men and women. Fortunately, big companies train their employees and the management in a dress code.

I'll try to identify briefly the most important elements of man Dress Code:
  1. Suit: the line should be fitted to the body.
There are 4 types of men's figure:

Triangle-all jacket line types, not too loose trousers.

Rectangle-slightly accentuated shoulders, wide lapels, 1 or 2 buttons, quite tight trousers.

Pear-single-breasted with 3 buttons / only the middle one done up, not too tight, accentuated shoulders, straight trousers.

Apple- single-breasted with 3 buttons, slightly accentuated shoulders, the line of jacket waist fitted, but also double-breasted, classic trousers with an average leg width.

Note: suit should not be shiny if it is a business meeting, I advise against admixture of silk. Matt suit, with the admixture of  wool is the most appropriate choice.

Colours: navy blue, dark gray, anthracite, black / for more formal occasions.

2 Shirt:  I recommend men with a slim figure  waist fitted shirts, because there is nothing worse than too much fabric on the body. 100% cotton is, of course, the best composition and long sleeves are recommended for formal situations. I will write about the shirt and matching its individual components in a separate post. The collar should be classic or Button-Down with buttons. The cuff should stick out about 1 cm from the jacket sleeve, preferably fastened cufflinks.
Colours: I recommend a white shirt in business as well as in all other situations. It is a“ must have” in every man’s wardrobe. Blue, light gray and soft pink shirts are also acceptable in man Dress Code.

3 Tie: necessarily of good quality, preferably 100% silk. I discourage bold designs, which attract too much attention. A tie can be matched according to the colour:
a / a blue shirt- a navy blue tie, pink one- fuchsia or wine, a white shirt matches almost every colour.
b / a black suit- a black tie,  a navy blue one- a navy blue tie, etc.
As for the Dress Code, it is believed that the tie should be clear and create an aesthetic contrast with the shirt.
A bow tie is an individual choice. I recommend it to you in particular occupations and functions: professors, doctors or figures in the field of culture, where individualism in clothing is welcomed.
A pocket square, which I would recommend, is recently a very fashionable accessory for formal, men's clothes. The handkerchief can be folded freely or you can make it protrude evenly  about 2 -3 cm from the pocket of the jacket. It should match nicely the whole outfit, but not constitute a set with the tie. If a man during a meeting is not wearing a tie, and such situations are acceptable, he can add a pocket square to look elegant.

4 Shoes: extremely important part of man’s wardrobe. Actually, there are three types that  exist in classic fashion: Oxford, Derby and moccasins. The first two types of shoes are tied. Oxford type-the lace part emerges from the shoe, Derby- the lace part is sewn separately.
Moccasin are shoes without lacing.
Colours: Black, of course, genuine leather is necessary as well as a leather bottom. I do not recommend pumps, which are perfect for ultra-formal fashion. I am going to write a separate post on that subject. Recently, shoes in a dark shade of brown have become popular, actually, Dress Code does not allow other colours. Moccasins are more of a smart casual mainstream.

5 Socks: long to mid-calf or even knee-length are necessary. They need to be longer and match the colour of the shoe preferably, or a suit. They must never be light, always very dark.

6 Watch: an incredibly important piece of information about the interlocutor. The higher  business thresholds, the more expensive it should be, unfortunately. The elegant watch is a watch on a leather belt, but a watch bracelet made ​​of  precious metal is admissible, of course. Cufflinks, a watch, a wedding ring are the only jewellery that man Dress Code includes. Note: The colour of the metal determines the colour of the other  metals or jewellery in clothing. If the dial of the watch is gold the shirt cufflinks  and the belt buckle should also be gold. Similarly, if the watch has the dark brown leather belt, we can wear the same colour of shoes and the belt. Browns blend in better with a dark blue or dark gray suit,  I would recommend black accessories to a black suit.
7 Coat: I suggest a chesterfield or covert coat:  a  3/4 length jacket, fastened with three buttons, with not too wide lapels,  of a black or anthracite colour, plain or herringbone weave. Other types of coats are also acceptable, but in my opinion, they do not look professional and you have to have a good stylist eye to fit the cut to the body.
8 Headgear: a darker-coloured hat with a small brim or a flat cap. I would not recommend skier caps, berets, and other male-heads inventions - what looks good in everyday, casual attire arrangement can not be used in dress-code vademecum.
I do not recommend leather jackets or outer covers in  man Dress Code, although  it might sometimes be an expensive product of good quality.  I would recommend this type of men's garments items for less formal meetings.   
There are many publications on the man Dress Code. The best and most-detailed description can be found in the book by Krzysztof Łoszewski "Dress Code- the secrets of man’s elegance" published by Bosz in 2012.
"Gentleman- timeless fashion " by Bernhard Roetzel published by Inwestycje in 2009   will give you an insight  into the principles of male elegance.

The above description of man Dress Code in business is a small piece of information, but I wanted to give a brief outline for men how to move in non-verbal world of the principles of man’s clothing. The power of the image and range of information that we send to our partners in business depend on ourselves. 

For styling  I used  Kastor shirt, Collection Adam tie

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