Ultra formal part 2 /english version/

  

  

       The formal image of a man before 6 pm is the official, DAYTIME masculine clothing. Besides a tuxedo and a tailcoat it also consists of a  frock coat and a morning coat. These two forms of formal attire are often confused with each other, so let me say a few words about them.   

Frock coat / Prince Albert Coat / - a high-buttoned jacket made of wool, double-breasted, knee-length, was popularized in the nineteenth century in England. It was obligatory during ROYAL ASCOT horse races.

Distinguishing features:

-It has peaked lapels finished with a silk and woolen border and a double-breasted front fastening.

-It also has one slit in the back / vent / complemented by two buttons. It is longer than the long coat. This characteristic length is called the "body coat". Typically, it also has cuffs with buttons and a slit at the waist. It has no external pockets. Buttons in a frock coat are covered with silk or made ​​of horn.

What to wear with a frock coat:

- A shirt- you can wear two types of shirts: more and less formal.

The first type is necessarily a white shirt with a high stand-up collar, or with a detachable one. So called imperial collar, which is typical for a frock coat, it can also be a wing type.

The second type is a less formal shirt, which does not have to be completely white, but it can have a white collar and cuffs / this type of shirt is called "winchester" /. The best frock coat shirt collar is HRH / the collar is also used with the morning coat /, which can also be a wing one or Italian.

Shirts need not have a standard placket, but studs are recommended in a set with cufflinks.

The shirt cuffs should be single, with a cufflink / French cuffs are acceptable with the second type of shirt, for example with a white collar. /

Together with a frock coat, we wear a vest- a different fabric is necessary. The frock coat can be single breasted, then the style is a little less formal.

- trousers: cashmere striped morning trousers, woolen with a subtle pattern, high-waisted, without turn-ups.

-a hat: a top hat type, black or gray.

- a coat: "chesterfield", parelot or an overfrock with a white or gray scarf.

- shoes:  top boots: laced-up or buttoned /, sometimes double coloured, with a distinctive punching on the tip.

For whom:

- the Groom

- to the Royal Ascot horse racing and other celebrations before 6 pm.

Frock coat colour: black, graphite, dark navy blue.

MORNING COAT -a long, woolen coat reaching to the knees, buttoned mostly with one button or chain / cord /. The bottom of the front is characteristically cut at a slant. The jacket has a rounded skirt in the front. The rear has no or a single vent-but usually without buttons. The standard morning coat has a chest pocket.

What to wear with the coat:

- a less formal shirt: white, blue, pink, ecru. Striped or subtly checked ones are acceptable with a double cuff clip.

- cashmere striped, high- waisted, woolen trousers, similar to the ones worn with the frock coat, without turn ups.

- shoes: oxford shoes with a classic height bootleg. The shoes are often made ​​of two kinds of fabric. If the bootleg is of a different colour than the bottom part of the shoe, the socks should match the bootleg.

- a vest: It can be both single or double-breasted. The ones which are buttoned low, we wear with a bow tie. The vests which are buttoned high- with a (scrunchy) or foulard tie.  A classic wide tie is acceptable. Vest colours: black for business meetings,  it is also advisable in shades of beige, biscuit, sand, ecru. Light Grey can also be acceptable, however, it is considered to be the colour a bit out of date.

- a hat: a gray top hat

- jacket:  "chesterfield" or parelot.

- the coat colour: black or dark gray.  

I have to mention other formal, daily clothing versions which are also acceptable and even more popular during solemn occasions: 

 FROCK COAT SUIT  : designed like the frock coat, but all the costume elements are made ​​of one fabric. 

MORNING COAT SUIT  this is a morning coat version , but the jacket, vest and trousers are made ​​of the same fabric.

Formal dress dates back to the history of the male clothing. Many accessories that gentlemen wore in ancient times, are recommended today, although they are rarely used, for example:

- gloves- gray or chamois

- a stick or an umbrella

- a pocket watch on a chain